I've only been in ES for one night as a transit from Belize to the US... but even my bro has heard wonderful things about it, mainly the surf.... but according to my all time fav magazine Wanderlust, this is what else you can do....
~Southwest Coast: coast around La Libertad has some of the best waves, dive in volcano lakes or hike in the primary forest of El Imposible National Park
~ volcanoes and views : peaks around Santa Ana
~ Suchitoto: most popular town after the capital
~ Ruta de las flores: hills near Apaneca, string of cobbled, colonial villages overlooked by spine of dramatic volcanoes
~ eat: Pupasas
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