Uganda

**Clouds mtn gorilla lodge**
The glimpse of jet black through the trees, the sound of shoots breaking, a deep chesty sigh, eyes peering through the undergrowth. This experience is a 60-minute shot for the soul. At last count, there were just 700 mountain gorillas left; this new property on the edge of the Impenetrable Forest has access to half that number – so there’s as good a chance here as any to track down a troop. Facing Rwanda’s volcanic cones and Congo’s green valleys are eight stone cottages, more mountain chalet than rugged refuge. Your butler stokes the fire. The maid slips a hot-water bottle between the sheets. But, best of all, guests can stroll from their rooms to the start of the gorilla trek. Until now, the nearest hotel was several hours by four-wheel drive. Cross the continent for this, cross five.