Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Cambodia Angkor

  1. Bakeng Hill --Just past Angkor Wat, Bakeng Hill is meant to resemble Mount Meru, the center of the earth in the Hindu cosmology. The hill makes a great spot for sunrise or sunset viewing and gets crowded like a mosh pit in high season. The hike up is a good way to limber up and break a sweat predawn, but the crumbled steps and slippery mud are a bit much for some. Consider taking the trek in style high up on an elephant's back in a houda. Elephants for hire start at about $20 (£11) and wait at the bottom of the hill.
  2. Koh Ker -North of Beng Melea is Koh Ker, another popular off-the-map temple
  3. Kabal Spean- Known as the "River of a Thousand Linga" (a linga is a phallic symbol representing the Hindu god Shiva), Kabal Spean lay undiscovered by Westerners until a French researcher stumbled across it only recently. Dating from the early 11th century, the relief carvings that line the stream beds are said to purify the water before it fills the reservoirs (called barays) of Angkor. It's the journey here that's really interesting -- on some rough roads through rural villages north of Banteay Srei -- and there's a fun forest hike (about 30 min. to the first waterfall). Khmer folks come to picnic, and it's a good spot to swim or follow the path that trips along at brook side; from there, you can view the many carvings in relief on the banks and creek bed
  4. Pre Rup -With it's three central spires, Pre Rup looks a bit like a mini Angkor Wat. Prerup was built by King Rajeindravarmen II in 961 and was dedicated to Shiva. The best views are from the Hindu temple's south side. It is made of gray sandstone, which is a less durable material than the pink sandstone of Banteay Srei. As such, time and weather have had its way with the temple and much of the intricate carvings and detail have been worn away by rain and erosion. It's a crumbling edifice but still completely awesome in size and structure. Plants have begun to grow on the central towers and you can see their bright green leaves working their way through the gray stone. You'll be scrambling over the fallen rock and debris near the bottom of the temple and you still feel like a humble, insignificant mortal. Climb to the top of the temple and look west; on a clear day, you can see Angkor Wat's spires (roughly 12km away) peeking out over the treetops.
  5. Ta Kaeo - What's most interesting about Ta Kaeo is that it was never completed. Legend has it that the temple was struck by lightning during its construction, and all work was abandoned at a stage where the main structure was complete, but no adornment had been added; as such it serves as "Temple Structure 101." Also unique is the fact that Ta Kaeo is made of a rich green sandstone (elsewhere it's a deeper brown or grayish color). Built in the 10th century by Jayavarman V, the temple was dedicated to Shiva. The central prang once housed a lingum, and the three levels are all encircled by sandstone galleries. The climb to the top is very steep, a bit of "4-points" rock climbing really, but the view is well worth it.


2-3 wk temple trail
danang to hoi an to doc let to nha trang to Phan Rang to Mui Ne to HCM to Phnom Penh to Sambor Prei Kuk to Preah Vihear to Koh Ker to Angkor

temples yet to check out---Koh Ker or Banteay Chmar

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