Iran / Persia

1. fly to Tehran from Dubai
2. archaemenid ruins of Persepolis-seat of ancient achaemenid Empire, 70 km from Shiraz
3. mosques of Esfahan
4. stay Homa or (modern but lack of character) Pars international in Shiraz http://www.pars-international-hotel.com/ $107 atmospheric *Abbasi* http://www.abbasihotel.com/ $120 (in Esfahan)
5. other places to see
6. Shiraz: Citadel of Karim Khan Zand, & tomb of great poet Hafez in Shiraz
7. Meidan Emam, Esfahan
   Tchogha Zanbil
   Takht-e Soleyman
   Bam and its Cultural Landscape
   Pasargadae
   Soltaniyeh
   Bisotun
   Armenian Monastic Ensembles of Iran

~Zeinoddin Caravanserai
Ranked among the best 'Final frontiers' hotels
Now that everyone is longing to get into the Axis of Evil as fast as their flying pants will allow, blow the competition out of the water by staying here. Sitting on the legendary Silk Route, surrounded by oases and hot springs, this is a building with history, where gold, ivory and spice traders would hole up and gossip. It has been beautifully restored and is utterly enchanting, unlike anywhere else you have been before. With large wooden doors, vertiginously high ceilings, carpeted brick floors and little wooden ladders up to your raised bed, hidden behind a wall of heavy curtains, it’s Harry Potter-gone-Persian. There’s an exquisite dining room where you feast on chicken with walnuts and pomegranate and bowls of saffron rice. The staff, from the Belushi tribe, are absurdly good-looking. After dinner, they whirl themselves into a frenzy.
Location: Yazd, Iran

Reservations: Simoon Travel (tel: 020 7622 6263)

Rates: Double, from £80

When to Go Iran's climate is at its best in spring or fall, but try to avoid the fasting month of Ramadan (October 4 to November 2 this year), when restaurants close during the day, and the weeks around Noruz, the Persian New Year (March 21, 2006)
consider side trips to Yazd, Hamadan, and Kerman, which offer more traditional Persian flavor

Tehran
Iran's capital is urban to the max, and the traffic is appalling, but it's worth more than just a stopover. The Tehran Bazaar is a must, though you'd be well served if you hired a guide to wind you through it. Indeed, great shopping is one of the city's primary attractions. Tehran's many museums are worth a visit, especially the Museum of Contemporary Art. Park-é Laleh and Park-é Mellat are where Tehranis gather to picnic, play soccer, and while away cool evenings. Don't even think of missing a morning hike in Darakeh, north of the city, or a cheap and homey breakfast at one of the myriad chaykhuneh (teahouses) along the trail.

WHERE TO STAY
Melal Apartment Hotel
Popular with business travelers, this all-suite hotel in north Tehran is the most comfortable in town, with a health club, pool, and in-house chauffeur service. Two-bedroom suites from $250 per night. 68 Naseri St.; 98-21/879-0543; www.melal.com

WHERE TO EAT
Nayeb Park-é Sa-i
This north Tehran landmark is the place to be for Friday lunch. The well-to-do wait up to two hours for a linen-covered table, where they feast on excellent kebabs and platters of perfectly cooked long-grain rice. Lunch for two $25. 1030 Val-ye-Asr Ave.; 98-21/871-3471

Maykhanechi
An old-school joint—just outside the Tehran Bazaar's carpet showroom, it's a pet resort of the dealers— serving fantastic ground lamb (kubideh) and chicken kebabs, paired with sour pickles, fiery raw onions, and delectable smoked rice. Dinner for two $6. 76 Lajevardi Alley, off Khayyam St.; 98-21/561-4152

Monsoon
Well-prepared Southeast Asian dishes (prawn curry, tamarind-glazed chicken) draw a young, Western- leaning crowd. Soft lighting, lacquer-topped tables, and walnut-paneled walls provide a soothing ambience. Dinner for two $36. Gandhi Shopping Center, corner of fourth St. and Gandhi Ave.; 98-21/879-1982

WHERE TO SHOP
Agate Gallery
Contemporary takes on classic Persian gold jewelry. 14 Kar & Tejarat St., off Vanak St.; 98-21/877-5571

Laal Jewelry
Rare and high-quality pieces, including earrings, pendants, Burmese rubies, and parures from Iran's Qajar period. 2 Golshahr Passage, Golshahr St., off Africa (Jordan) Ave.; 98-21/205-5552; www.laaljewelry.com

Z. Naghashpoor Carpets
One of the finer rug dealers at the Tehran Bazaar. Second floor, Shops 15 and 16, Saray Akbarieh (Carpet Showroom); 98-21/563-0793

Panje Tala
Small but well-curated boutique for handicrafts, carved wooden figurines, decorative boxes, kilims, table lamps, and metalwork. 151 Ostad Nedjatollahi Ave.; 98-21/880-1791; www.panjetala.com

Tavazo
The city's best selection of nuts (Iranian pistachios are outstanding), seeds, and dried fruits—including melons, mangos, apricots, limes, and anything else you can imagine. Multiple locations, including 1056 Val-ye-Asr Ave.; 98-21/871-7094; www.tavazo.com

Esfahan
By far the loveliest city in Iran, Esfahan retains great old-world charm in its gardens, mosques, and bridges, not to mention the graceful vernacular architecture of its everyday buildings. The 17th-century wooden palace of Chehel Sotun holds some of Iran's most accomplished frescoes, richly detailed tableaux of the Safavid kings' epic battles. The vast Imam Square at the center of town is said to be the second-largest urban plaza in the world, after Tiananmen Square; it's dominated by the dazzling, aquamarine-tiled Imam Mosque. The square's southern edge is fronted by Esfahan's evocative bazaar. Crossing the Zayandeh River are five historic bridges (and six newer ones), tucked into which are numerous waterside teahouses—ideal places to welcome the evening. For a good English-speaking tour guide, contact Abbas Alijanian (abbasalijanian@yahoo.com).

WHERE TO STAY
Abbasi Hotel
Iran's most atmospheric hotel, in a 17th-century caravansary surrounding a courtyard with rosebushes and persimmon trees. Interiors are all gilt- and mirror-encrusted ceilings, crystal chandeliers, and brilliant frescoes. Request one of the restored Qajar suites that overlook the garden. Doubles from $170. 98-311/222-6010; www.abbasihotel.com

WHERE TO EAT
Wooden Bridge Teahouse
A classic chaykhuneh under the arches of Khajoo Bridge, catering to a student crowd. Women and men can be seen sharing hookahs here in cozy corners (despite a law forbidding women to smoke them). Under Pol-é Khajoo, Kamal Esmaeil St.; 98-311/221-8295

Chaykhuneh Sonati Azadegan
Another tea-and-hookah haunt that's popular with both students and bazari. The food is delicious and cheap, especially the goosht kubideh (a pastelike spread made from mashed lamb stew, to be slathered on lavash bread) and the piquant house-made torshi, a condiment of pickled vegetables. At the well of Haj Mirza, off Mir-emad St., near Imam Square

Shiraz and Persepolis
Shiraz has long been Iran's intellectual center, with several top-rated universities, as well as the avowed capital of Persian literature: the poets Hafez and Sa'di are buried here, and their garden-shrouded mausoleums are popular nighttime gathering spots. Old Shiraz, on the eastern side of the city, contains the wildly jumbled Bazaar-e Vakil, a plethora of mosques and madrassas, as well as the sparkling, mirror-covered shrine of Shah-e Cheragh. Just 40 minutes away by car are the ruins of Persepolis, an essential part of any visit to Iran. A fantastic guide for both Shiraz and Persepolis is the charming and eloquent Akbar Daghigh-Afkar (98-917/112-4249; akbard2003@yahoo.com).

WHERE TO STAY
Pars International Hotel
A new high-rise with all the mod cons and a central location. What it lacks in character it makes up for in convenience and service. Doubles from $95. Zand Blvd.; 98-71/233-6380

WHERE TO EAT
Hammam-e Vakil
Carved out of a historic hammam (bathhouse), with vaulted ceilings and a gurgling fountain, this is the most seductive setting in town. Order the fesenjan, a rich stew of chicken, pomegranate, and walnuts, and the albaloo polo, a hearty platter of rice studded with sour cherries. Dinner for two $15. Taleqani St.; 98-711/222-6467; www.hammam-vakil.com


Shater Abbas Restaurant
A convivial local favorite, occupying a beer hall–like cellar. The renowned, house-made taftun breads are baked and seared in a clay oven out front. The halim bademjan (eggplant and chicken mashed with yogurt) is excellent, as is the sabzi polo (rice with dill, coriander, parsley, and chives). Lunch for two $10. 1 Khakshenasi St.; 98-711/227-1612